Exfoliants: AHA, BHA, PHA

Chemical exfoliants dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells on, so they shed the way they’re supposed to.

  • AHAs (glycolic, lactic, mandelic): water-soluble, work on the surface. Texture, dullness, pigmentation.
  • BHA (salicylic acid), oil-soluble, gets inside pores. The one for blackheads, congestion, and oily skin. If you only learn one acronym, learn this one.
  • PHAs (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid): larger molecules, gentler, slower. The sensitive-skin entry point.

Physical exfoliants (scrubs) aren’t evil, but walnut-shell scrubs that scratch visibly are. If you scrub, make it gentle and infrequent. Chemical exfoliation is more even and easier to control.

Non-negotiable: exfoliation + sun \= pigmentation risk. Any exfoliating routine requires sunscreen, or you’re undoing your own work.


The BYOUT Library is educational content, not personalised medical advice. For persistent or severe skin concerns, a dermatologist beats any article, including ours.