Library

Hyaluronic Acid
The Library·Ingredients A–Z a humectant that binds water impressively. Usually added as ‘sodium hyaluronate’ in the INCI list. What it actually does: holds many times its weight in water, plumping the look of skin and improving surface hydration. It occurs naturally in skin; topical HA sits in the upper layers and hydrates there. Who it’s for: dehydrated skin (which is a state, not a type - oily skin can be dehydrated too). Anyone whose skin looks fine at 9am and crepey by 4pm. How to use it: on damp skin,... Read more...
Peptides
The Library·Ingredient Types Short chains of amino acids that signal skin to behave, most famously, to produce collagen. Matrixyl, copper peptides, Argireline. Where the science stands: promising, gentler than retinoids, and genuinely useful for people who can’t tolerate retinoids. Also more expensive per unit of evidence than almost anything else in skincare. If the budget forces a choice, sunscreen and a retinoid beat a peptide serum. If the budget doesn’t: peptides layer well with everything and irritate almost no one. Keep reading HumectantsHumectants pull water into your skin: from the... Read more...
Silicones
The Library·Ingredient Types Dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, anything ending in -cone or -siloxane. They give products slip, blur texture, and form a breathable protective film. The internet periodically decides silicones “suffocate skin.” They don’t, the film is permeable, and dimethicone is a common ingredient in products for damaged and post-procedure skin precisely because it protects without clogging. Some people don’t like the feel, which is a valid preference. It is not a safety issue. Keep reading PeptidesShort chains of amino acids that signal skin to behave, most famously, to produce collageHumectantsHumectants pull... Read more...
Fragrance
The Library·Ingredient Types “Fragrance” or “parfum” on an INCI list is a single word that can legally contain dozens of undisclosed components (protected as trade secrets under labelling rules). The honest position: fragrance makes products pleasant and is fine for most people. It’s also the most common cause of cosmetic contact reactions. If your skin is reactive, eczema-prone, or your barrier is damaged, fragrance-free is the safe default, and “unscented” isn’t the same thing (unscented products can contain masking fragrance). Essential oils are fragrance too. “Fragrance-free, scented with lavender oil”... Read more...
Preservatives (in defence of)
The Library·Ingredient Types Preservatives stop your products growing bacteria, mould, and yeast. Phenoxyethanol, parabens, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate. Unpopular but true: preservatives are a safety feature. A “preservative-free” water-based cream is a petri dish with a nice label, especially in our climate. The paraben panic traces back to one small 2004 study that even its author said didn’t demonstrate harm; every major regulator that has reviewed parabens since considers them safe at cosmetic concentrations. Brands market “paraben-free” because fear sells, then use a different preservative anyway. What we flag instead:... Read more...
Tea Tree Oil
The Library·Ingredients A–Z the essential oil with actual acne evidence - effective diluted in a formula, and a skin-wrecker applied neat from the bottle. What it actually does: terpinen-4-ol, its main component, is genuinely antibacterial and anti-inflammatory. A 5% tea tree gel has held its own against 5% benzoyl peroxide for mild acne in studies - slower to work, but gentler on the way. Who it’s for: mild breakouts on skin that wants a lighter touch than benzoyl peroxide, and people who prefer the ingredient’s profile - as a formulated... Read more...
Sulfur
The Library·Ingredients A–Z the oldest acne ingredient still on the shelf - unfashionable, faintly eggy, and quietly the right tool for a very specific job. What it actually does: sulfur dries out pustules, gently exfoliates the plug, and suppresses both acne bacteria and malassezia - the yeast behind “fungal acne.” That last part is its trump card: those uniform, itchy forehead-and-hairline bumps that flare in humidity and laugh at salicylic acid are often yeast, not bacteria, and sulfur is one of the few over-the-counter things that touches them. Who it’s... Read more...
Snail Mucin
The Library·Ingredients A–Z the K-beauty hydrator with a cult following - a genuinely nice moisturising ingredient. What it actually does: snail secretion filtrate is a mix of glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, and trace glycolic acid. It hydrates, supports barrier recovery, and gives that bouncy, glazed finish K-beauty is known for. The evidence: a few small studies showing modest improvements in hydration and texture.. Who it’s for: dehydrated skin, post-active recovery, and anyone chasing the glass-skin finish. How to use it: essence or serum step, before moisturiser, morning or night. No conflicts.... Read more...
Bakuchiol
The Library·Ingredients A–Z the plant-derived “retinol alternative”, real early evidence, gentler manners, and a much thinner file than the ingredient it’s compared to. What it actually does: bakuchiol is purified from the seeds of babchi (Psoralea corylifolia), yes, the same babchi from desi remedies. It isn’t a retinoid chemically, but it appears to switch on some of the same skin pathways: early studies, including a small head-to-head trial against 0.5% retinol, found comparable improvement in fine lines and pigmentation with noticeably less dryness and flaking. Who it’s for: people who... Read more...
Centella Asiatica (Cica)
The Library·Ingredients A–Z the calming plant extract K-beauty made famous - decent evidence for soothing and repair, as long as you don’t expect miracles. What it actually does: contains compounds (madecassoside, asiaticoside) with genuine anti-inflammatory and wound-healing-support evidence. Calms redness, supports barrier recovery, plays nicely with everyone. Who it’s for: irritated or angry skin, redness, the recovery weeks of retinoid or acid routines. How to use it: creams, serums, ampoules. No conflicts, no schedule. Honest expectations: “calmer” is the deliverable, visible redness reduction over weeks. It’s a supporting ingredient with... Read more...
Zinc Oxide
The Library·Ingredients A–Z the mineral sunscreen filter - broad-spectrum UVA+UVB protection from a single ingredient, and the gentlest option for reactive skin. What it actually does: sits on the skin’s surface and absorbs-and-scatters UV across the full spectrum. (Yes, absorbs: the “mineral sunscreens reflect light like a mirror” explanation is mostly myth; they work primarily by absorption too, just via different chemistry.) Also mildly anti-inflammatory, which is why it’s in nappy-rash creams. Who it’s for: sensitive skin, acne-prone skin that breaks out from chemical filters, anyone post-procedure or post-acid. The... Read more...
Panthenol
The Library·Ingredients A–Z vitamin B5 - the soother in half your products’ supporting cast, doing quiet repair work. What it actually does: humectant plus anti-inflammatory plus wound-healing support. Converts to pantothenic acid in skin, where it aids barrier repair. It’s why “soothing” products so often actually soothe. Who it’s for: irritated, post-active, post-sun, post-threading skin. Sensitive skin generally. How to use it: it’s already in your routine - moisturisers, serums, sheet masks. Concentrations of 1–5% do real work. No conflicts with anything. Keep reading Zinc Oxidethe mineral sunscreen filter, broad-spectrum... Read more...