What it actually does: retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) speed up skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen production. The family runs from gentle (retinyl esters) through retinol and retinal (over the counter) to prescription tretinoin and adapalene. Everything else in anti-ageing skincare is auditioning for the role retinoids already have.
Who it’s for: fine lines, texture, acne, post-acne marks, general “my skin looked better three years ago.” Not for pregnancy or breastfeeding - full stop, all forms.
How to use it: night only. Pea-sized amount for the whole face, twice a week, increasing slowly over months. The “sandwich method” (moisturiser, retinoid, moisturiser) is training wheels and training wheels are smart. Sunscreen every morning becomes mandatory, not optional.
Plays well with: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, ceramides. Keep apart from: exfoliating acids and benzoyl peroxide on the same night, at least for the first few months.
Honest expectations: weeks 2–4 often get worse, dryness, flaking, possibly breakouts. This is the phase where everyone quits. Push through gently (reduce frequency, don’t stop) and real results show at month three, with the good stuff at six to twelve. Retinoids are a relationship, not a fling.
Watch out for: Retinol speeds up skin cell turnover, exposing fresh new skin cells that burn and damage easily under UV rays, which is why sunscreen daily (indoor and outdoor) is a must.
The BYOUT Library is educational content, not personalised medical advice. For persistent or severe skin concerns, a dermatologist beats any article, including ours.